Virginia's tips
My Fab Favourite spots*
My Roman days, between past and present. Books, music, cinemas, exhibitions, walks, charming corners that simply lure you in!
New and second hand books in English and Italian. A labyrinth of surprises! In Campo de' Fiori.
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Libreria Fahrenheit 451
44 Piazza Campo de' FioriNew and second hand books in English and Italian. A labyrinth of surprises! In Campo de' Fiori.
One of the oldest cinemas in Rome, always showing high quality films, often in their original languages with Italian subtitles. A must!
In Campo de' Fiori.
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Cinema Farnese
56 Piazza Campo de' FioriOne of the oldest cinemas in Rome, always showing high quality films, often in their original languages with Italian subtitles. A must!
In Campo de' Fiori.
Independent Italian and English-language bookshop with a brilliant selection and pub downstairs (check out the concerts and the event proposed).
In via del Governo Vecchio, just behind Piazza Navona.
Don't miss the many wine bars along the way too!
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Altroquando
82 Via del Governo VecchioIndependent Italian and English-language bookshop with a brilliant selection and pub downstairs (check out the concerts and the event proposed).
In via del Governo Vecchio, just behind Piazza Navona.
Don't miss the many wine bars along the way too!
You can enjoy this green spot on Aventino and its view every moment of the day, though I've always had a soft spot for walking through Rome early and reach this place in the morning. Try. It's a timeless place.
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Κήπος των Πορτοκαλιών
Piazza Pietro D'IlliriaYou can enjoy this green spot on Aventino and its view every moment of the day, though I've always had a soft spot for walking through Rome early and reach this place in the morning. Try. It's a timeless place.
In the hearth of Trastevere (the quiet side, the other side of Viale Trastevere) this bookshop owned by one of my best friends, is a real gem. Specialised in non-western literature and postcolonial literature, it also has a reasonable selection of books in English and children books. Besides, they regularly organise language courses of Arabic and Swahili. You will also find handmade clothes and accessories.
Libreria GRIOT
1/A Via Santa CeciliaIn the hearth of Trastevere (the quiet side, the other side of Viale Trastevere) this bookshop owned by one of my best friends, is a real gem. Specialised in non-western literature and postcolonial literature, it also has a reasonable selection of books in English and children books. Besides, they regularly organise language courses of Arabic and Swahili. You will also find handmade clothes and accessories.
Maybe you already know, I have no doubt about it. But in case you don't, once you reach this square, try to peek in the keyhole of the door!
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Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta
Piazza dei Cavalieri di MaltaMaybe you already know, I have no doubt about it. But in case you don't, once you reach this square, try to peek in the keyhole of the door!
Situated in the charming Roman ghetto, this place is certainly worth a visit: cabinet of curiosities, exhibition of pictures, vintage and historical images, art photography... isn't enough?
Il Museo del Louvre
8a Via della ReginellaSituated in the charming Roman ghetto, this place is certainly worth a visit: cabinet of curiosities, exhibition of pictures, vintage and historical images, art photography... isn't enough?
Not just a fancy commercial centre, one of the most elegant and old in Rome... Go to the terrace for a coffee or a tasty aperitivo and enjoy in the meantime the fantastic views of Rome. There is also a fancy restaurant and the possibility to buy teas, coffees and italian delicacies. Moreover, in the basement you can admire archaelogical remains!
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Rinascente Roma Tritone
61 Via del TritoneNot just a fancy commercial centre, one of the most elegant and old in Rome... Go to the terrace for a coffee or a tasty aperitivo and enjoy in the meantime the fantastic views of Rome. There is also a fancy restaurant and the possibility to buy teas, coffees and italian delicacies. Moreover, in the basement you can admire archaelogical remains!
Close to Campo de' Fiori there is a quiet and cosy village square to fall in love with!
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Arco degli Acetari
19 Via del PellegrinoClose to Campo de' Fiori there is a quiet and cosy village square to fall in love with!
My yummy guide
Where are we going to eat? :)
Cats, delicious vegan and seasonal food, charming venue and nice people. Do you need more reasons?
Go to Ostiense, it is close to the Pyramid.
Yes, there is a pyramid in Rome. And cats there too. The cats of the pyramid. I am not joking.
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Romeow Cat Bistrot
15 Via Francesco NegriCats, delicious vegan and seasonal food, charming venue and nice people. Do you need more reasons?
Go to Ostiense, it is close to the Pyramid.
Yes, there is a pyramid in Rome. And cats there too. The cats of the pyramid. I am not joking.
All the pizza and local sweets you wish for! Ideal for a quick, cheap and delicious meal to enjoy in the nearby Piazza Farnese, whose Palace hosts the French Embassy and Carracci's frescos.
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Forno Campo de 'Fiori
22 Piazza Campo de' FioriAll the pizza and local sweets you wish for! Ideal for a quick, cheap and delicious meal to enjoy in the nearby Piazza Farnese, whose Palace hosts the French Embassy and Carracci's frescos.
Romantic and elegant, the ideal place if you are looking for gourmet and delicious meals. I suggest the red wine called Cesanese del Piglio, together with a white focaccia wiith burrata and puntarelle. Total bliss!
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Pianostrada
65 Via delle ZoccoletteRomantic and elegant, the ideal place if you are looking for gourmet and delicious meals. I suggest the red wine called Cesanese del Piglio, together with a white focaccia wiith burrata and puntarelle. Total bliss!
Fancy a French breakfast in Rome? Lovely little boulangerie in Trastevere with sweet and savoury pastries.
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Le Levain Boulangerie
22 Via Luigi SantiniFancy a French breakfast in Rome? Lovely little boulangerie in Trastevere with sweet and savoury pastries.
Nedless to say, one of the best pizzeria in Rome, off the tourist route. Just take the tram no. 8 (5 minutes from the apartment) and in 10 minutes you will be there. Ready to be spoilt by their incredible menu?
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La Gatta Mangiona
30-32 Via Federico OzanamNedless to say, one of the best pizzeria in Rome, off the tourist route. Just take the tram no. 8 (5 minutes from the apartment) and in 10 minutes you will be there. Ready to be spoilt by their incredible menu?
Artisal gelateria, patisserie and cioccolateria, just in front of one of the most beautiful square in the city. Don't miss pistachio, strawberry, almond, rosemary, sage... White chocolate and basil is a total bliss...!
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Gelateria del Teatro
65/66 Via dei CoronariArtisal gelateria, patisserie and cioccolateria, just in front of one of the most beautiful square in the city. Don't miss pistachio, strawberry, almond, rosemary, sage... White chocolate and basil is a total bliss...!
In the heart of Roman Jewish ghetto (one of the most ancient in the world), one of the best, genuine and cheap restaurant of the area, just in front of Teatro Marcello's ruins. Don't miss the artichokes' recipes!
Reservation is recommended.
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GIGGETTO2
21/a Via Sant'Angelo in PescheriaIn the heart of Roman Jewish ghetto (one of the most ancient in the world), one of the best, genuine and cheap restaurant of the area, just in front of Teatro Marcello's ruins. Don't miss the artichokes' recipes!
Reservation is recommended.
Authentic Roman cuisine. Friendly, cheap and genuine place in Via del Governo Vecchio, behind Piazza Navona.
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Da Tonino - Trattoria Bassetti
18-19 Via del Governo VecchioAuthentic Roman cuisine. Friendly, cheap and genuine place in Via del Governo Vecchio, behind Piazza Navona.
My favourite pizza has always been the Roman one, flat and crunchy... And here is the place I can find it just as I want it. Very close to the apartment (just cross the road!).
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La Montecarlo
13 Vicolo SavelliMy favourite pizza has always been the Roman one, flat and crunchy... And here is the place I can find it just as I want it. Very close to the apartment (just cross the road!).
Books, Chocolate and Wine. Isn't the name of this place enough to convince you? In Trastevere.
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Vendita Libri, Cioccolata e Vino
11A Vicolo del CinqueBooks, Chocolate and Wine. Isn't the name of this place enough to convince you? In Trastevere.
Perfect for an aperitivo, or a fancy light dinner in Trastevere, far from the crowd. What I like is the curated choice of every ingredients and their creative, yet tempting, combinations!
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Latteria Trastevere
1 Vicolo della ScalaPerfect for an aperitivo, or a fancy light dinner in Trastevere, far from the crowd. What I like is the curated choice of every ingredients and their creative, yet tempting, combinations!
Very close to home, if you fancy a second breakfast. It's both a bar (everything they have is so tasty! and a shop with nice shoes, accessories and bags. What else?
Manfrè Borse e Caffè
15 Via dei BarbieriVery close to home, if you fancy a second breakfast. It's both a bar (everything they have is so tasty! and a shop with nice shoes, accessories and bags. What else?
Osteria La Quercia
23 Piazza della QuerciaSimply perfect. Find the time to try... Everything! :)
If you love Chinese dumplings like I do, don't miss this place! Fresh ingredients and nice atmosphere in one of the most interesting shopping neighborhood.
Bao Bao - Handcrafted Chinese Ravioli
9/11 Via Paolo EmilioIf you love Chinese dumplings like I do, don't miss this place! Fresh ingredients and nice atmosphere in one of the most interesting shopping neighborhood.
Veru close to Termini station, for variety and quality of the ingredients, this is by far one of the best food option in Rome. You can both buy stuff for your pantry or stop to eat and drink there. If you are nearby don't miss it!
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Mercato Centrale Roma
36 Via Giovanni GiolittiVeru close to Termini station, for variety and quality of the ingredients, this is by far one of the best food option in Rome. You can both buy stuff for your pantry or stop to eat and drink there. If you are nearby don't miss it!
One of the best "pizza al taglio" you can find in the city! You won't ever want anything else!
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Pizza Florida
25 Via FloridaOne of the best "pizza al taglio" you can find in the city! You won't ever want anything else!
Ai Tre Scalini
251 Via PanispernaGreat wine, tasty food, cosy place.
Amazing flavours: apple and cinnamon, pistachio from Bronte, zibibbo, pepper and walnuts... And if you are into granite, don't miss the basil-ginger one!
Lactose-intolerant friendly too :)
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Gelateria dei Gracchi
272 Via dei GracchiAmazing flavours: apple and cinnamon, pistachio from Bronte, zibibbo, pepper and walnuts... And if you are into granite, don't miss the basil-ginger one!
Lactose-intolerant friendly too :)
Bread, pizza, ready and fresh meals of Roman cuisine... I always go there when I don't feel like cooking and I am never disappointed.
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Antico Forno Roscioli
34 Via dei ChiavariBread, pizza, ready and fresh meals of Roman cuisine... I always go there when I don't feel like cooking and I am never disappointed.
You cannot visit Rome without trying the fried baccalà! The little square where this place is located is also a nice one equipped with a small cafè with tables outside. Not to be missed.
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Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara
88 Largo dei LibrariYou cannot visit Rome without trying the fried baccalà! The little square where this place is located is also a nice one equipped with a small cafè with tables outside. Not to be missed.
Cheap and tasty. If you are into Roman cuisine don't miss this place and its "pasta cacio e pepe".
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Trattoria da Augusto
15 Vicolo de' RenziCheap and tasty. If you are into Roman cuisine don't miss this place and its "pasta cacio e pepe".
Don't miss this wonderful gem with tasty, genuine, local and seasonal dishes and cosy interiors. I wish I could eat there every day!
Cucina del Teatro
Don't miss this wonderful gem with tasty, genuine, local and seasonal dishes and cosy interiors. I wish I could eat there every day!
Looking for tasty, simple and not so expensive typical Roman dishes served with a bunch of local lively spirit? This is the place you are looking for!
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Trattoria da Paolo
92 Via di S. Francesco a RipaLooking for tasty, simple and not so expensive typical Roman dishes served with a bunch of local lively spirit? This is the place you are looking for!
Go to Trastevere and book a table in this cosy and elegant venue. You will find all the local food you can dream of, and maybe more at a reasonable price. Do you need anything else?
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Roma Sparita
24 Piazza di Santa CeciliaGo to Trastevere and book a table in this cosy and elegant venue. You will find all the local food you can dream of, and maybe more at a reasonable price. Do you need anything else?
Same name, but different people. Though as we say: a name, a guarantee. What are you going to find in this bakery? Is "everything" enough for you?
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Forno Monteforte
129 Via del PellegrinoSame name, but different people. Though as we say: a name, a guarantee. What are you going to find in this bakery? Is "everything" enough for you?
Amazing and tasty recipes and a wonderful project of integration behind! You will find it at Ostiense.
Reeser Str. 106, 46446 Emmerich am Rhein, Γερμανία
Amazing and tasty recipes and a wonderful project of integration behind! You will find it at Ostiense.
Their pizza is literally to die for. Probably one of the best I've ever tasted. And the combination of the ingredients? The amazing toppings? Seriously, aren't you already running there?
Casa Manco
22 BoxTheir pizza is literally to die for. Probably one of the best I've ever tasted. And the combination of the ingredients? The amazing toppings? Seriously, aren't you already running there?
Everything, you can find literally everything here. If you are into street food or you want just to grab some veggies, fish, meat or vegan food to bring home, don't miss this place!
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Αγορά Testaccio
66b Via Aldo ManuzioEverything, you can find literally everything here. If you are into street food or you want just to grab some veggies, fish, meat or vegan food to bring home, don't miss this place!
Art, food and an amazing view. It's an art gallery, a residence for artists, a bar and a restaurant, all designed by Jean Nouvel. Don't miss it!
Rhinoceros Le Restau & RoofBar
Art, food and an amazing view. It's an art gallery, a residence for artists, a bar and a restaurant, all designed by Jean Nouvel. Don't miss it!
Can a bistrot be very yummy, tasteful and also offer you one of the best views of the world at an affordable price? You will find all your answers here!
Caffè braschi
Can a bistrot be very yummy, tasteful and also offer you one of the best views of the world at an affordable price? You will find all your answers here!
When I feel like a refreshing good beer (they have a very good selection!) or want to enjoy an aperitivo in a quieter spot in Campo de' Fiori for a chat with friends, I come here!
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The Drunken Ship
20/21 Piazza Campo de' FioriWhen I feel like a refreshing good beer (they have a very good selection!) or want to enjoy an aperitivo in a quieter spot in Campo de' Fiori for a chat with friends, I come here!
Don't miss this Gelateria close to Pantheon! And don't miss their amazing granitas (almond, gelso, watermelon...) and the Rose (yes, the flower!) ice cream flavour. You will fall in love with it!
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Cremeria Monteforte
22 Via della RotondaDon't miss this Gelateria close to Pantheon! And don't miss their amazing granitas (almond, gelso, watermelon...) and the Rose (yes, the flower!) ice cream flavour. You will fall in love with it!
Gems of culture and art
The former Campus Martius, where Julius Caesar was assassinated, is now the province of some of the city's most beloved cats. The archaeological site will be open to the public as of 2021. For now you can admire the ruins from street level and visit the cat sanctuary... where you can leave a donation towards their continued care by a group of devoted volunteers, or even adopt a kitty for yourself :)
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Largo di Torre Argentina
Largo di Torre ArgentinaThe former Campus Martius, where Julius Caesar was assassinated, is now the province of some of the city's most beloved cats. The archaeological site will be open to the public as of 2021. For now you can admire the ruins from street level and visit the cat sanctuary... where you can leave a donation towards their continued care by a group of devoted volunteers, or even adopt a kitty for yourself :)
The fascinating remains of Nero's huge palace, which inspired Renaissance artists such as Raffaello and Pinturicchio. Open to public after more than 10 years. For bookings, here is the link: www(dot)coopculture(dot)it/heritage.cfm?id=51
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Domus Aurea
Viale SerapideThe fascinating remains of Nero's huge palace, which inspired Renaissance artists such as Raffaello and Pinturicchio. Open to public after more than 10 years. For bookings, here is the link: www(dot)coopculture(dot)it/heritage.cfm?id=51
A few minutes away from the apartment this almost unknown gem is waiting for you... And when you are in, look up!
Passetto del Biscione
91-99 Passetto del BiscioneA few minutes away from the apartment this almost unknown gem is waiting for you... And when you are in, look up!
I've lost count how many times I visited this wonderful palace. Far from the busiest touristic routes (and I still wonder why) this is one of the most beautiful place you can ever step in. Besides the permanent collection from the Roman period and the splendid Renaissance venue, the palace often hosts intriguing and well curated artistic exhibitions. You can also buy a combined tickets which will allow you to visit other wonderful sites nearby which are part of the Museo Nazionale Romano complex.
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Εθνικό Ρωμαϊκό Μουσείο - Παλάτσο Άλτεμψ
46 Piazza di Sant'ApollinareI've lost count how many times I visited this wonderful palace. Far from the busiest touristic routes (and I still wonder why) this is one of the most beautiful place you can ever step in. Besides the permanent collection from the Roman period and the splendid Renaissance venue, the palace often hosts intriguing and well curated artistic exhibitions. You can also buy a combined tickets which will allow you to visit other wonderful sites nearby which are part of the Museo Nazionale Romano complex.
A bit far, but you cannot miss this place! It was founded by the Roman emperor Constantine on the burial place of Paul of Tarsus, where it was said that, after the apostle's execution, his followers erected a memorial. Along with the basilicas of Saint John in the Lateran, Saint Peter's and Saint Mary Major is one of the major Roman basilicas. The interiors are astonishing!
Abbazia di San Paolo Fuori Le Mura
186 Via OstienseA bit far, but you cannot miss this place! It was founded by the Roman emperor Constantine on the burial place of Paul of Tarsus, where it was said that, after the apostle's execution, his followers erected a memorial. Along with the basilicas of Saint John in the Lateran, Saint Peter's and Saint Mary Major is one of the major Roman basilicas. The interiors are astonishing!
A stunning Renaissance building and also a space for amazing exhibitions and concerts (don't forget to check the website for the latest news and exhibitions). Inside also a nice bar for the most artistic coffee you can wish for!
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Chiostro del Bramante
5 Arco della PaceA stunning Renaissance building and also a space for amazing exhibitions and concerts (don't forget to check the website for the latest news and exhibitions). Inside also a nice bar for the most artistic coffee you can wish for!
Not so far as you might think (with the bus 628 and a lovely 10 minutes walk you can be there easily) and definitely worth a visit to get to know more the ancient people of Etruria and their advanced culture.
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Εθνικό Ετρουσκικό Μουσείο
Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9Not so far as you might think (with the bus 628 and a lovely 10 minutes walk you can be there easily) and definitely worth a visit to get to know more the ancient people of Etruria and their advanced culture.
Mother church of the Jesuits, besides its wonderful paintings, sculptures and trompe l'oeil, it is also known for its "baroque mechanism". I won't make spoiler, just be sure to be there at 5.30pm.
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Εκκλησία του Ιησού
16 Via degli AstalliMother church of the Jesuits, besides its wonderful paintings, sculptures and trompe l'oeil, it is also known for its "baroque mechanism". I won't make spoiler, just be sure to be there at 5.30pm.
Built over the ruins of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, which had been erroneously ascribed to the Greco-Roman goddess Minerva, this beautiful church is one of the major churches of the Dominicans. Don't forget to look up!
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Βασιλική Αγίας Μαρίας Σοπρα Μινέρβα
42 Piazza della MinervaBuilt over the ruins of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, which had been erroneously ascribed to the Greco-Roman goddess Minerva, this beautiful church is one of the major churches of the Dominicans. Don't forget to look up!
The obelisk (VI sec. BC) was installed by Bernini (he designed it) on an elephant ("Il pulcino della Minerva") in front of the Minerva church. The Latin inscription on the pedestal reads: "Let any beholder of the carved images of the wisdom of Egypt on the obelisk carried by the elephant, the strongest of beasts, realize that it takes a robust mind to carry solid wisdom." And we cannot but agree with that. Also, it seems that following an argument with the Dominicans, The Bernini, perhaps to take revenge on the Dominicans, Bernini designed the elephant with its butt facing the convent and with its trunk and tail accentuating, with their position, an irreverent and offensive gesture of the animal.
Elephant and Obelisk
69 Piazza della MinervaThe obelisk (VI sec. BC) was installed by Bernini (he designed it) on an elephant ("Il pulcino della Minerva") in front of the Minerva church. The Latin inscription on the pedestal reads: "Let any beholder of the carved images of the wisdom of Egypt on the obelisk carried by the elephant, the strongest of beasts, realize that it takes a robust mind to carry solid wisdom." And we cannot but agree with that. Also, it seems that following an argument with the Dominicans, The Bernini, perhaps to take revenge on the Dominicans, Bernini designed the elephant with its butt facing the convent and with its trunk and tail accentuating, with their position, an irreverent and offensive gesture of the animal.
A beautiful church, close to Piazza Navona with a surprise within: the Raphael's Chigi Chapel.
Σάντα Μαρία ντέλλα Πάτσε
5 Arco della PaceA beautiful church, close to Piazza Navona with a surprise within: the Raphael's Chigi Chapel.
Roman shopping
Follow the footsteps of a Roman girl and snag some truly original items on this unique trail across the most inspiring shops that the Eternal City has to offer.
Original and affordable jewels (also in recycled metal), accessories, clothes... I always pop in just to have a look at their amazing collection! Only a few minutes walk from home.
Vestopazzo Store - Largo delle Stimmate
28 Largo delle StimmateOriginal and affordable jewels (also in recycled metal), accessories, clothes... I always pop in just to have a look at their amazing collection! Only a few minutes walk from home.
Roman Souvenirs which actually don't suck. But also funny stuff for Roman people: t-shirts, tote bags, pins, stickers... All objects here will easily teach you to speak Roman dialect in less than five minutes. I always have a laugh, every time I go there...!
Rome is More
31 Via Mastro GiorgioRoman Souvenirs which actually don't suck. But also funny stuff for Roman people: t-shirts, tote bags, pins, stickers... All objects here will easily teach you to speak Roman dialect in less than five minutes. I always have a laugh, every time I go there...!
If photography is your passion you cannot miss this wonderful shop! It is the place where I bring my films to print.
Ars - Imago International
25 Via Caio MarioIf photography is your passion you cannot miss this wonderful shop! It is the place where I bring my films to print.
Fancy an original notebook to take note of all your Roman exploration, favourite spots, shops, restaurants or just as a both romantic and practical object to bring back with you at home? Don't miss this very old shop in the historical centre!
Cartoleria Pantheon
41 Via della MaddalenaFancy an original notebook to take note of all your Roman exploration, favourite spots, shops, restaurants or just as a both romantic and practical object to bring back with you at home? Don't miss this very old shop in the historical centre!
If you like ethical fashion, gorgeous design and social enterprise don't miss this place! Accessories, clothes, things for your house. You won't be disappointed.
Coloriage
If you like ethical fashion, gorgeous design and social enterprise don't miss this place! Accessories, clothes, things for your house. You won't be disappointed.
Toys, books... This place is like a fairy tae. If you have children don't miss it!
Città del Sole - Natura e... Roma Scrofa
65 Via della ScrofaToys, books... This place is like a fairy tae. If you have children don't miss it!
Le Guide ai Quartieri
This vibrant neighborhood is named after Monte Testaccio, a small hill made by ancient broken vessels. Full of typical roman restaurants, bars, markets and sites of interest such as the Pyramid Cestia, Saint Paul Gate, the Porticus Aemilia, the Church of Santa Maria Liberatrice, the ex Mattatoio (now a contemporary art museum), the Protestant Cemetery, also known as English Cemetery.
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Monte Testaccio
This vibrant neighborhood is named after Monte Testaccio, a small hill made by ancient broken vessels. Full of typical roman restaurants, bars, markets and sites of interest such as the Pyramid Cestia, Saint Paul Gate, the Porticus Aemilia, the Church of Santa Maria Liberatrice, the ex Mattatoio (now a contemporary art museum), the Protestant Cemetery, also known as English Cemetery.